Esperanza the Musical and Juan Luis Guerra

by Marshall on December 3, 2010

Culture lives in streets and homes and daily routines, but it shines in creative expression:  literature, visual art, music, dance, gastronomy, theater. Last weekend’s musical Esperanza: el Musical at the Teatro Nacional was one such experience – a slice of pure Dominican culture.

The Story: Childhood sweethearts Manuel and Esperanza are separated when Esperanza’s family moves to the city in search of a better life. Years later and all grown up, Manuel leaves the countryside to find his cousin, (supposedly) a successful businessman in the city who will surely be able to help Manuel with his fledgling career as a musician. Turns out his cousin is a poor tire salesman in a run-down barrio. But who should live nearby? You guessed it – Manuel’s long-lost-but-never-forgotten love, Esperanza. But the sentimental reunion is dampered by the fact that Esperanza is to leave the very next day to pursue her dream – three years of university in New York City. Tension builds. Relationships are strained. What becomes of these star-crossed lovers? You’ll have to see it for yourself!

The story isn’t nearly as profound as, say, Les Miserables, but dilemmas presented are very Dominican. The dream of a better life. The dream of making it to America. The dream of success and fame. The dream of love.

In the barrio.

The Characters:  Aside from the main characters, the rest of the cast are as typical as it gets, stereotypes of the people you encounter in everyday Dominican life.

El Colmadero:  Sporting his flashy diamond earrings and Lakers jersey, he runs the local colmado (bar/corner store). He’s a man of the streets, a joker, a smooth operater, and he knows everyone.

Shawn the Gringo:  The American…nerdy, awkward, bad accent, can’t dance, he runs the local internet café. In love with Esperanza but doesn’t realize he doesn’t have a chance.

The Bodacious Dominicana:  Loud, plump, flirty and forward, she wants an American lover so she can get a visa for the States.

La China:  Grouchy Chinese immigrant who runs the local dry cleaners. Easily identifiable by her slumped posture and shuffle/walk, she’ll occasionally surprise you with a joke and a high, whiny laugh.

The Rich Girl:  Shows up when her SUV gets a flat tire. Lives vicariously through her BlackBerry (I can attest, this is very typical here) and her fashion sense.

El Frutero:  Sells fruit from his pushcart, he’s a passive character who observes everything in the barrio and offers his philosophical insights to the audience.

The Music:  It´s hard to imagine that one man’s music could literally be universally loved by a country, yet Juan Luis Guerra has achieved just that. Quite literally, every Dominican knows and loves his music. He has so many hits that you could turn them into the soundtrack for a musical. And that’s exactly what they did.

You see, Esperanza is based entirely on the music of Juan Luis Guerra. Every song. Spicy salsa, movin’ merengue, beautiful bachata ballads, and everything in between. Guerra, born in Santo Domingo and trained at the prestigious Berklee College of Music in Boston, is a master of Latin music and has achieved huge success in the Latino world. His songs are a celebration of Dominican life. Here’s one that made it into the musical:

The Dancing:  It wouldn’t be Dominican if it didn’t make you want to dance!

All in all, a very cool It was quite fitting to go out for typical Dominican food at Adrian Tropical afterwards. Dominican experience! A special thanks to mis amigos Angie and Krudo for bringing me along!

More Links:

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Show me the meaning of triptófano.

No, not the Spanish release of the Backstreet Boys’ little-known Thanksgiving Day single. I shared this scrumptious Thanksgiving dinner with my wonderful Dominican friends. Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic. Photo taken 25 Nov 2010 (Thanksgiving Day).

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Life in the field

by Marshall on November 24, 2010

Want a feel for the life of a field volunteer with Esperanza? Check out this post from my colleague Nick Hamilton, over at the Kiva blog. Hailing from England, Nick is volunteering for a few months as a Kiva Fellow in the DR & Haiti, sharing the stories of various Esperanza loan clients online at Kiva.org. We met a few weeks ago at Esperanza’s main office and he’s been working at the San Pedro branch ever since.

Preview:

San Pedro is a loud, throbbing, dusty market town thronged with cluttered stalls and swerving, reckless traffic. The stuffy daytime air is dominated by the raucous buzz of rattling motorbikes while barking dogs and the odd confused cockerel assume control at night. A shortage of running water is a real issue and mass electricity outages occur on a daily basis. In almost 2 weeks in San Pedro I haven’t encountered a single tourist. I don’t think that’s likely to change. This, for me, is the real Dominican Republic.

Enjoy, and happy Thanksgiving-Eve travels to all back home!

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Photo of the week: ancient steps

by Marshall on November 22, 2010

Santo Domingo Cathedral steps

Ancient Steps

Steps of the Catedral de Santo Domingo, oldest cathedral in the Americas, built in 1506. Zona Colonial, Santo Domingo, República Dominicana. Photo taken 23 Oct 2010.

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Just another pot-hole in the road

by Marshall on November 17, 2010

Conversation with my host-dad Freddy during the morning commute:

Me:  So, has the American economic crisis effected things much here in the Dominican Republic?

Freddy:  No. We’re always in an economic crisis, so we’re used to it.

Touché.

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In the 5 weeks I’ve been in the Dominican Republic, I’ve seen some strange things. Not much has been stranger than the various concert advertisements I’ve seen around town. Liza Minelli’s face looming above a busy intersection was the last straw; I had to investigate.

First it was the Jonas Brothers at the Olympic Stadium on October 16. Thanks to these modern-day Mozarts, I got to see this poster all over town. According to reports, the concert ended early due to technical difficulties with the sound. But we all know the real reason.

The Brothers Jonas fled the stage to pursue their true passion...hitting up the sale racks at the local H&M. "Their blazers are so rad," said Jonas J. Jonas. "The sleeves roll up just how I like."

Then came Yanni. Except his Nov 13 concert was postponed entirely. Which is eerily similar to a postponed Nov 2009 Kenny G concert. For shame. It’s been a rough year for the New Age piano and smooth jazz crowd here in the DR.

And now Liza, headlining a national film festival. What will be her fate? Perhaps a severe bout of vertigo will cause her to truncate her performance.

Lucille...I mean Liza's Dominican popularity is dizzying.

Who could be next? It’s mere speculation, but in showbiz all roads lead to…Bieber!

Got Bieber?

Sarcasm aside (this post is dripping with it, just to be clear), all these sub-par concerts got me wondering. If you had to pick one musician/group to represent America to the rest of the world, who would you choose? Who would really do us proud?

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Wet and Wild with Hurricane Tomás

by Marshall on November 5, 2010

Hurricane Tomás is here, and it´s raining a lot.

For the past week the storm has been moving north through the Caribbean, and its now passing between the Western tip of Haiti and the Eastern edge of Cuba. Here in Santo Domingo (284 miles away from the eye of the storm), we´re escaping the worst of the 85 mph category 1 hurricane  winds. But it´s still going to be a rainy and windy weekend. No serious danger, just unpleasant to be outside.

The more rural parts of Haiti and the DR are at risk for landslides though.

I don´t have my camera USB cord, or else I´d upload some photos looking out from the North Santo Domingo branch office. We even have a few leaky windows, but its good to be indoors.

For a cool interactive map of the storm, click here.

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1 office, 2 office, old office, new office

by Marshall on October 28, 2010

Last week I mentioned we were moving offices. We made the move last Friday, and this week has been a jumble of unpacking boxes, arranging and rearranging desks, and various growing pains as the office continues to undergo various renovations.

On Monday we had power (which means A/C!) and our servers were up at the end of the day. By Tuesday our office was (mostly) organized. On Wednesday afternoon (after a mid-day power outage) the internet was connected on the first floor. Wireless is up today, as far as I know (today I’m in the Santo Domingo Norte branch office).

The new office is smaller but has a nicer feel, is more affordable, and is closer to my home.

Here are a few pictures from the move:

Outside of the old office

Packing up the old office.

Working on the new office - we occupy the 1st floor and half the 2nd floor.

Server is up!

New conference room/lunchroom.

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Interactive map of where I live

by Marshall on October 26, 2010


View Larger Map

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A refreshing treat on a hot moving day

by Marshall on October 22, 2010

Today we finished packing up the old Esperanza office and headed to the new one. It was hot and muggy as usual, so when the cocero (coconut vender) came by, nearly everyone bought agua de coco (coconut water) and fresh coconut. Of course, I joined in.

Coquero

This coquero hit the jackpot at our new office.

It was refreshing, but the taste was a little strange – like water with a hint of sweetness and nuttiness.

My agua de coco, with fresh coconut.

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